Majnu Ka Tilla

Posted on July 27, 2018July 27, 2018 by indtr

Off track and off the radar but definitely worth a visit!!!

Majnu ka tilla – A very odd name for a place! That was my first reaction when I heard about this place. It evoked a different kind of feeling and imagination in my mind. The name Majnu is generally associated with the lover of the Laila Majnu fame. So, I kind of googled around to see how the name came to be associated with this place.

I got to find out that this name came from an Iranian Sufi bhakt who used to stay at this mound near the Yamuna river. He was called Majnu because of his intense love for God. He was a seeker and wanted to find the true meaning of God. In that quest, he met with Guru Nanak at this bank.

Guru Nanak also stayed at this place for a few months. He was very fond of this Sufi sant and this place came to be called as Majnu Ka Tilla from that time onwards. A Gurudwara was later constructed to commemorate Guru Nanak s visit.

However, what this place is famous for today is neither the Sufi Sant or the Gurudwara but a small settlement of Tibetan community from 1960s. There are some monasteries and a thriving market that belongs to this community.

The place is small and the lanes narrow, but it has a feel of Tibet when you walk into those alleys. There are shops selling Tibetan handicrafts, paintings, books, jewellery items, beads for prayer, clothes and fabrics that is very very Tibetan in nature and form. It is a little Tibet in all its colours and art forms.

Eating joints of all kinds – street food to restaurants serving authentic Tibetan food is available and you can have your pick. Sha Phaley, Momos and all the other varieties that you might want to try is available at these junctions and joints.

We could also see a lot of monks wandering around, some visiting the monastery here and others who are probably staying in these.!!

Tibetan Prayer Wheels with mantras written on it was visible around the monastery area.

Qutub Minar

Posted on July 27, 2018July 27, 2018 by indtr

It was my third visit but I am still quite awed by the magnificence of this edifice along with all the other ruins and architectural marvels spread around it. I wanted to go slow and cover each and every curve and the angle of the place but we were in a hurry. I felt a tinge of disappointment when we had to finally turn back as the sun was setting upon it.

Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, Delhi

The Minar was built by Qutub-ud-din-Aibak in 1193 and is considered one of the tallest brick minaret standing today in the world. Muhammed Ghori had defeated Prithvi Raj Chauhan. Qutub-ud-din-Aibak was the slave of Muhammed Ghori and he was left to take care of all the Indian possessions when Ghori went back to Afghan. He became the ruler of Hindustan when Ghori died. I kept wondering what would have inspired him to build such a tall building in the first place. Was it pride or security or to show the world his power and dominance. One would never be able to find the true answer.

This tower is so tall that if one goes up to the top floor and looks around, he/she would be able to see the entire stretch of Delhi from all the sides. So this could have been used like a watch tower to monitor activities of enemies or attacks planned on the city. However, some believe that it was built to celebrate his victory over the Hindu rulers. It is also said that it was built along with the Mosque to be used for the call for prayer.

Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, Delhi

We decided to go in from the south side this time. On the southern side is the tomb of Imam Zamin or Imam Muhammed Ali who came from Turkistan and was in some way connected with the Quwwat-Ul-Islam Mosque. The tomb stands on 12 pillars with perforated carvings of red sandstone with a dome standing on marble and red sandstone terrace. It has a marble door on one side. From there, we entered the Alai Durwaza.

I fell in love with Alai Durwaza!

The tall arched gateway looked stunning. The intricate carvings and engravings on the walls of this tall square domed building look splendid and superb. I couldn’t just take my eyes and hands off and move on. These looked liked blocks of ornamental artworks placed one upon the other going up to the roof. It was a marvel how these constructions were carried out. The masonry work, the building architecture and designs had influences of various cultures. Some of the designs seem to be from Central Asia – probably done by artisans who had taken refuge in India due to Mongol attacks.

From the Alai Durwaza, we came into the Mosque area. The courtyard was surrounded by pillars of cloisters ornately designed with Indian art motifs. There are various stories surrounding the construction of these places. Some say that many Hindu temples were destroyed and this building came up in place of that and the other concept is that Indian artisans were used to construct the building in the beginning and therefore there is influence of indian designs while in the additional structures added on by other rules have more Islamic designs incorporated.

Finally, we were standing in front of the grand minar. As we looked up from where we were at the base, we could see the beautiful edifice touching the sky. It had bands of intricate carvings of Arabic calligraphy. The architectural style is typically afghan from where Qutub-un-din-Aibak came. It is built in a red and buff coloured sandstone.

Qutub Minar is considered one of the monuments in Delhi that you should not miss if you are in Delhi.

Zafar Mahal

Posted on July 26, 2018July 26, 2018 by indtr

I had never heard of Zafar Mahal till some days ago when my husband brought it up as one of the places we should be visiting. And to know that it was in Mehrauli which is about 15 minutes from where we live was even more astounding.

When we finally made the visit today we realized that people living right next to the Palace were also quite unaware of its existence and significance. We asked some people for directions in Mehrauli and they were quite clueless.

It could be probably because the area around Zafar Mahal has been encroached and people have built all kinds of buildings in and around that it is not seen properly and even the front façade does not give out the impression of the vastness that lay beyond.

The frontage is very simple. The Mahal looked deserted. The gates called the “Hathi Gate / Elephant Gate” were massive but closed and only a small enclosure which was part of the gate was open for people to pass through. We got in not knowing whether we should or not but once inside, saw some men old and young in groups sitting on the inside lanes playing cards. I was a bit scared, but since I was with my husband, we went on with our discovery mission.

I should confess, it was a revelation! The more we went in, it opened up more and more surprises. Even though the building was in a ruined condition, it was delightful to see the gorgeous formations and composition of the pillars, walls and its structure. Made in Red Sandstone with some marbles thrown in, there was hardly any roof left apart from the main building and the domes.

To think that this is a place where the last Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar wished to be buried was quite shocking. He used to spend the summers in this place and was called his Summer Palace.

The Palace was originally built by Akbar II and named after his son Bahadur Shah Zafar. The entrance was then modified by Bahadur Shah Zafar himself. The tombs of Akbar II, Shah Alam and Mirza Jahangir lie within this Palace. Akbar II’s tomb is inside a marble enclosure.

There is a royal mosque also built in marble adjacent to where the tombs lay.

The halls in the upper parts of the buildings are vast with columns of arched pillars. The carved pillars and arcades are beautiful to behold.

Chandni Chowk of Delhi, India

Posted on July 25, 2018July 25, 2018 by indtr

Going through chandni chowk and it’s various little gulley’s is a favourite pastime for me and my husband. We would hop on a Delhi metro and shoot off, the moment we find we have a day to ourselves and are not needed to do some errand for the family or go the kids school or run to some other event.

We prefer taking the Delhi metro to this place because one we cannot dream of getting our car into the unmanageable little roads and get stuck in traffic for endless hours. It also gives a breather to my husband who is the only one in our family who can drive right now.

So, on a nice sunny winter day, we set off to be part of the busy streets, hawkers, vendors, chai wallahs, the street food guys. It is an interesting mix of people and buildings, old and new, all intermingled with each other that they still maintain an individuality yet look so distinct.

A person probably visiting for the first time might not find this place interesting at all. I used to be like that. I hated going there amongst the dirt and the chaos, amidst people jostling with each other to get ahead, people screaming at the top of their voices, a mayhem of cycle rikshaws, auto-rickshaws, car, scooter and hoards of people all getting into each others way and nerves.

I only had to make 2 or 3 visits with my husband to really understand the depth of these places. Once you get into a gulley or a lane, the varieties of a single aspect displayed was simply mind boggling. Now, I sometimes simply go there to open up my horizon, of my understanding of what all things are available there.

There is a lane dedicated to only gems and stones. Another lane would be selling only buttons and embellishments. On one lane, you will simply find laces, rows of shops selling different coloured, different styles of laces. There is a lane for bicycle parts, one lane for clothes, one for sarees, one for dry fruits and nuts, spices….. The list just goes on.. Everytime we go, we choose a different lane to explore.

This old Delhi used to be the only Delhi people knew some 30 to 40 years back. By now though the boundaries of Delhi has expanded to beyond Gurgaon on the south and Noida on the west, Rohini on the north, etc. But when you visit old Delhi, you would not imagine that Delhi has expanded so much. Life goes on as it used to couple of decades before. It is as if time stood still somewhere in those periods for Chandni Chowk while the others moved on!

Humayun’s Tomb

Posted on July 25, 2018July 25, 2018 by indtr

The long Lodi road from Safdarjung Tomb ends rather tamely at the Sabz Burj right inside the roundabout, or what is now popularly known as the Neeli Chhatri for its spectacular blue dome. Take the second exit and you are already inside the Humayun Tomb premises. A short walk and an entrance ticket later, we entered the chirpy grounds. I was accompanying my cousin from Kerala on a tour of Delhi and were now at the famed Humayun’s Tomb.

The Humayun’s tomb is preceded by tombs of lesser known personalities, but the fun fact is that they are far better preserved. We were told that the Aga Khan Foundation along with the TATA trust had been engaged to restore the monument to its pristine past. And it was pretty evident.

The squeaky clean pathway that leads to the Humayun’s Tomb

Past the domed gate lay the Humayun Tomb.

The tomb stands on a terraced platform. You can climb up to the platform to enter the tomb. We went in October and the pleasant climate was perfect for viewing.

The tomb has two stories. But the entrance to the upper floors are closed. I am sure there was a time when these were open to the general public, but that day it was closed. 🙁

Humayun’s Tomb, apart from Humayun’s grave, also contains graves of other royal members of the Mughal family of the time.

There are gates on all four sides of the tomb, which gives it a unique quadrilateral look, something of a uniqueness with subsequent Mughal architecture, especially that contains tombs.

We enjoyed our visit and after packing our memories in an electronic plastic card, we made our way to the next destination. More on that later.

Lotus Temple

Posted on July 25, 2018July 25, 2018 by indtr

As we exit Nehru Place under the Nehru Place Metro Station towards the Lotus temple, the roads begin to slightly deteriorate. This road definitely needs layering. As we bank left into the road that leads to the Lotus temple, the temple perimeter becomes visible with a lovely fencing that is both aesthetic and useful. The morning sun reflected the temple in all its splendour.

I was taking my cousin, who had come from Kerala, to see a wonderful architectural wonder in modern Delhi – the Lotus Temlpe, the worship abode of the Baha’i community in Delhi. Created in the shape of a flowering lotus, it is an architectural wonder and was opened to public in 1986. It is situated east of Nehru Place, south of East of Kailash and north of Kalkaji. While technically, the place where it stands is called Baharpur, everybody calls it Lotus Temple!! The regular flow of visitors, including a vociferous group of schoolchildren, was picking up as we made our way into the premises. The entry is designed in such a way as to let the visitors view the exterior for an extended period of time before they can enter the sanctorum. Verdant gardens envelop the surroundings and this autumn morning, they were in a colourful riot.

A flight of tastefully crafted steps lead up to the entrance. The structure itself is surrounded by pools of clear water. We came to know that these help keep the sanctorum cool. Footwear is not allowed inside the sanctorum. However, we were provided bags to keep the footwear.

There are nine gates that open into the sanctorum and we entered through one into the coolness of the great hall. Silent and majestic, it was a beautiful experience. We sat in one of the many benches that are provided inside the hall. After a few moments of meditation we explored a bit and then made our way out. The bags were returned and after the many customary photo sessions, we made our way back to our car.

Some facts about the Lotus Temple to help you make your visits more enjoyable

1. Visit towards the evening. The light show is a must-see!
2. More than 20% of the total electricity requirement of 500KW is generated through solar panels.
3. There is an elaborate arrangement for water conservation throughout the premises.
4. The pools cool the sanctorum even in the most fiercest of summers.
5. Photography inside the sanctorum is disallowed.
5. Entrance is free.

Know more about the Baha’i Temple | Wiki Entry on Baha’i Temple

Baha’i Temple on Google Maps

Nehru Place – The IT Hub of Delhi

Posted on July 25, 2018July 25, 2018 by indtr

If you are a computer geek, then you definitely can’t miss being in the middle of all the cacophony of Nehru Place. From a high end computer and laptop to any computer or mobile accessory, you can find solutions from company owned retail outlet to distributors to shady underhand pirated and cheap illegal stuff. In short, there is a solution to everyone.

As we approach Nehru Place from the South side of Delhi, we start seeing the high-rises of Nehru Place from the overbridge that starts from Sarovar Portico in Pamposh Enclave.

Nehru Place is a cluster of old buildings with outdated lifts and outdated structures which houses some corporates and business houses.

In the middle of these huge structures is one of the most happening central plaza where you can find shops selling computers and mobiles, stationery items, computer accessories, printouts and photocopies, banks punctuated by some food joints and other facilities for people working around this place.

In the central arcade, we can find all sorts of small vendors with their different kinds of wares from belts, purses, bags, computer and mobile accessories, clothes and fabric items.

It was a pleasant surprise to find a section of the market dedicated now to garments and fabrics. There are more varied set of consumers who would be flocking to Nehru Place. As a woman, I used to find Nehru Place quite boring with only computer stuffs, but now there is more to look forward to during a trip to Nehru Place!

Nehru Place is now beginning to be more than just an IT hub. It has multiple other options like Cafe Coffe Day, Epicuria food court and Fitness First gym giving multiple options and products for consumers to experience and shop.

There are big buildings of Microsoft with multiple hotels around Nehru Place.

A metro station with a full fledged food court has also come up at the other end which has made commuting to this hub quite an easy task for people working and shopping here.

Sarojini Nagar Market of Delhi

Posted on July 25, 2018July 25, 2018 by indtr

Sarojini Nagar Market is the all-weather all-season market that caters to the needs of the entire South Delhi. If there is one market that can satisfy Delhiwala’s appetite for shopping, it is this market.

Sometimes I have a feeling that people come here with the sole intention of testing out their negotiation and bargaining skills. I used to hate bargaining and would simply feel quite magnanimous in handing over the price the vendors asked for. But some of my visits with my husband, a hardcore bargainer have made me realize that the vendors kind of look down upon people who do not negotiate because as the norm goes, they hike up the price by atleast twice or thrice the original price so that they would still be left with some margin when the deal is finally done.

However, there are fixed price outlets and wares where you can select garments in the same range starting from Rs. 100, 150, 200, 250, etc..

I have been visiting this market from the time I got married about 20 years ago and came to settle down in the south side of Delhi. From then onwards, if I have anything to buy from children’s clothes to shoes, bags, undergarments, hosiery items, bed sheets, covers or even curtains, etc., I head to this haven. There are even shops for buying vegetables, grocery items, household items and kitchen utensils in case you need such items.

Babu Market is another complex that lies in the same vicinity and has approximately 4 rows of shops that again caters to mostly garments with some jewellery shops and accessories and all women’s stores thrown in.

All said and done, this market offers decent products at affordable rates. You can find things you would not find anywhere else – children’s fancy dresses for their school competition, from paalak to a fairy, these shops can change their personality. They can even loan you these dresses for a day or two! What else would you need.

A word of caution though – On Sundays, only those who have some really good patience, focus and crowd management skills should attempt to attack this market. On Saturdays and Sundays, this market can be so crowded that you just need to stand at one place, the crowd will pull you to all directions.

Recently there has been an addition of a multi-storied parking plaza which has turned out to be semi-modern building in the vicinity with Haldiram’s and other food joints like McD and Subway catering to the hungry public!

Connaught Place – The shopping paradise

Posted on July 25, 2018July 25, 2018 by indtr

With all the big brands showrooms occupying the prime space in connaught place, the market is designed for those who are looking for premium products and ambience. Set in the old buildings built during the British era, refurbished and renovated to suit modern tastes and choices, this place is busy as well as quiet with an old world charm around it.

This place is still called by its old name inspite of being renamed as Rajiv Chowk and Indira Chowk. It has been one of my favourite haunts and I could roam around alone along the corridors and collonades of this beautiful shopping paradise for hours without getting bored. There is always a passive humdrum of people around. When I don’t want to buy anything, it gives me the simple pleasure of looking around and do a bit of window shopping. There are a variety of things that one could buy outisde of these showrooms too. Small shops with Indian handicraft items, books, posters with beautiful quotes, little trinkets are all sold along the paths.

Most of these buildings have been built by the Britishers but there are some little buildings from the Mughal and the Indian Rajas also around. The big roundabout of the Connaught Place covers a circle of multiple layers of buildings. There is an outer circle, middle circle and inner circle of buildings. Apart from the showrooms, these buildings houses offices and corporate houses of different organizations. There are banks, restaurants, panwalla’s, coffee shops, travel agents, etc.

The offices and business houses around this place ensures a regular flow of people into this area from all around Delhi.

It is also the central part of Delhi and all roads from every direction in Delhi come and converge at this point. In the centre of these circles is a huge round park which has recently undergone a huge makeshift from the park I knew of some 10-15 years ago. The Rajiv Chowk Metro Station and Palika Bazaar lie below this park.

This park now has a huge big Indian Flag with a small amphitheatre built-in the centre. People from all around come to take a little break and relax in the sun during winter days.

On Sundays too, when the market is closed there are people in huge numbers occupying this place.

This has turned out to be more than a shopping place – a tourist attraction, picnic spot and a place where one can just spend sometime with the loved ones!!

The enigma called Jantar Mantar

Posted on July 25, 2018July 25, 2018 by indtr

Surrounded by huge and towering buildings, this set of architectural structures stand for some long forgotten magical spell as the name suggests!!

Jantar Mantar is the oldest of a set of unique observatories built by Jai Singh II around 1724. There are mantras and yantras that Jai Singh created amidst these structures that give accurate tables for study of time and space to give astronomical insights.

The Misra Yantra is believed to be constructed by Maharaj Madho Singh designed to be accurately measuring the longitude of celestial objects like moon and can measure close to the minute of an arc.

One of the main structures is the Samrat Yantra which is also called as ‘King of Instruments’ that measures solar time or local time of a place and the sun’s declination.

The Jaiprakash Yantra (means Light of Jai) is named after the Maharaja Jai Singh who invented and constructed this hemispherical sundial system used both in day and night observations. The position of the sun was indicated by the shadow of the cross wires inside this hemisphere.

It has always been an enigma to me. I have tried to understand the way these things work, but haven’t got a clue looking at the structures though!!

A video on how the sun moves across different time spheres is given at http://www.jantarmantar.org/