Kovalam Beach, Kerala

Kovalam Beach

Kovalam is one of the famous beaches of Kerala and almost everyone in the country has heard or know about this famous beach. A lot of people hold it as a cherished dream to atleast once visit this famous spot. Even though we reside in Delhi for the most part of the year, because we are keralites, we get to travel to Kerala couple of times in a year and have been able to make it possible to visit this beach more than once.

We have visited many beaches in Kerala but this beach is different. It is a small and compact one and one of the most important things that stand out in my mind is that it has black sand.

Kovalam is a beach town in Trivandrum. It is a crescent like beach lined with coconut palm trees.

Kovalam Beach, Kerala

Beaches are always fun. Looking at the waves coming with such force and might gives a little thrill going down the spine. The foam and the froth that hits us as we stand on the beach waiting for these waves is exhilarating.

The sands from beneath our foot gets washed away and we feel like floating without actually floating. It is scary and yet very exciting. Children have fun but the gaurds at this beach are very strict and vigilant and don’t let people go far away from the beach. There is a red and white striped lighthouse to the left of the beach that keeps a watch over the sea .

 

 

 

majnu ka tilla, Delhi

Majnu Ka Tilla

Off track and off the radar but definitely worth a visit!!!

Majnu ka tilla – A very odd name for a place! That was my first reaction when I heard about this place. It evoked a different kind of feeling and imagination in my mind. The name Majnu is generally associated with the lover of the Laila Majnu fame. So, I kind of googled around to see how the name came to be associated with this place.

I got to find out that this name came from an Iranian Sufi bhakt who used to stay at this mound near the Yamuna river. He was called Majnu because of his intense love for God. He was a seeker and wanted to find the true meaning of God. In that quest, he met with Guru Nanak at this bank.

Guru Nanak also stayed at this place for a few months. He was very fond of this Sufi sant and this place came to be called as Majnu Ka Tilla from that time onwards. A Gurudwara was later constructed to commemorate Guru Nanak s visit.

However, what this place is famous for today is neither the Sufi Sant or the Gurudwara but a small settlement of Tibetan community from 1960s. There are some monasteries and a thriving market that belongs to this community.

majnu ka tilla monastery

The place is small and the lanes narrow, but it has a feel of Tibet when you walk into those alleys. There are shops selling Tibetan handicrafts, paintings, books, jewellery items, beads for prayer, clothes and fabrics that is very very Tibetan in nature and form. It is a little Tibet in all its colours and art forms.

Eating joints of all kinds – street food to restaurants serving authentic Tibetan food is available and you can have your pick. Sha Phaley, Momos and all the other varieties that you might want to try is available at these junctions and joints.

We could also see a lot of monks wandering around, some visiting the monastery here and others who are probably staying in these.!!

 

Tibetan Prayer Wheels with mantras written on it was visible around the monastery area.

Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, Delhi

Qutub Minar

It was my third visit but I am still quite awed by the magnificence of this edifice along with all the other ruins and architectural marvels spread around it. I wanted to go slow and cover each and every curve and the angle of the place but we were in a hurry. I felt a tinge of disappointment when we had to finally turn back as the sun was setting upon it.

Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, Delhi

The Minar was built by Qutub-ud-din-Aibak in 1193 and is considered one of the tallest brick minaret standing today in the world. Muhammed Ghori had defeated Prithvi Raj Chauhan. Qutub-ud-din-Aibak was the slave of Muhammed Ghori and he was left to take care of all the Indian possessions when Ghori went back to Afghan. He became the ruler of Hindustan when Ghori died. I kept wondering what would have inspired him to build such a tall building in the first place. Was it pride or security or to show the world his power and dominance. One would never be able to find the true answer.

This tower is so tall that if one goes up to the top floor and looks around, he/she would be able to see the entire stretch of Delhi from all the sides. So this could have been used like a watch tower to monitor activities of enemies or attacks planned on the city. However, some believe that it was built to celebrate his victory over the Hindu rulers. It is also said that it was built along with the Mosque to be used for the call for prayer.

Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, Delhi

We decided to go in from the south side this time. On the southern side is the tomb of Imam Zamin or Imam Muhammed Ali who came from Turkistan and was in some way connected with the Quwwat-Ul-Islam Mosque. The tomb stands on 12 pillars with perforated carvings of red sandstone with a dome standing on marble and red sandstone terrace. It has a marble door on one side. From there, we entered the Alai Durwaza.

 

I fell in love with Alai Durwaza!

Alai Durwaza - Qutub Minar, Delhi

The tall arched gateway looked stunning. The intricate carvings and engravings on the walls of this tall square domed building look splendid and superb. I couldn’t just take my eyes and hands off and move on. These looked liked blocks of ornamental artworks placed one upon the other going up to the roof. It was a marvel how these constructions were carried out. The masonry work, the building architecture and designs had influences of various cultures. Some of the designs seem to be from Central Asia – probably done by artisans who had taken refuge in India due to Mongol attacks.

Alai Durwaza - Qutub Minar, Delhi

 

From the Alai Durwaza, we came into the Mosque area. The courtyard was surrounded by pillars of cloisters ornately designed with Indian art motifs. There are various stories surrounding the construction of these places. Some say that many Hindu temples were destroyed and this building came up in place of that and the other concept is that Indian artisans were used to construct the building in the beginning and therefore there is influence of indian designs while in the additional structures added on by other rules have more Islamic designs incorporated.

Finally, we were standing in front of the grand minar. As we looked up from where we were at the base, we could see the beautiful edifice touching the sky. It had bands of intricate carvings of Arabic calligraphy. The architectural style is typically afghan from where Qutub-un-din-Aibak came. It is built in a red and buff coloured sandstone.

Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, Delhi

Qutub Minar is considered one of the monuments in Delhi that you should not miss if you are in Delhi.

Ernakulam Kochi City Boat Ride

Kochi

We usually get into Kerala via Nedumbassery airport at Kochi and therefore Kochi or Ernakulam is the first place that helps us get used to this beautiful lush green countryside. The ride from airport to the centre of the city takes about 1 hour.

There are multiple options to indulge oneself in once you get to the city. Depending on what time you get into the city, you could plan for a visit to the marine drive. It is an advisable option to go on a boat ride on the marine drive which is a famous hangout place for kochi people.

Ernakulam Kochi City Boat Ride

The marine drive is built facing the backwaters. On your ride, you could see different parts of the city – views of sky scrapers, the Bolgatty Palace, the cochin shipyard and the rainbow bridge. It is serene and beautiful to sit back and enjoy these picturesque scenario.

Ernakulam Kochi City Boat Ride

Ernakulam Kochi City Boat Ride

The other place you could make a visit to is Fort Kochi. A visit to Fort Kochi and Mattancherry peninsula with Jew Town will take more than a day, it is preferable to stay in one of the lodges there. It is the original Kochi from where the city expanded to the suburbs and now more people live in the other side of Kochi than Fort Kochi. It is almost like going back in time again. The small roads, pebbled streets, old buildings, churches, synagogue, cafe, the chinese fishing nets etc. all take you back to an era that one feels a little out of place. It is as if we are intruding into someone else’s life. But it is an interesting peek, anyhow.

Fort Kochi, Kerala

There is an entire spice market along the coast which is part of the fort. You could go around the town during the day to visit the Dutch cemetary, Police museum, St Francis church were Vasco Da Gama was once buried and then head back to the other side of the city by evening.

Chinese Fishing Nets, Ernakulam, Fort Kochi, Kerala

Fort Kochi, Kerala

 

Red Fort Front Facade

Red Fort or Lal Quila

Lal Quila or the Red Fort was the official residence of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan built about 200 years ago in 1628.

For me, the whole experience of visiting Red Fort was like peeling off an onion.   The more you move into the inner realms of the fort, the more beautiful and whiter the buildings and structures would get.   Finally, it came to the one building that I admired the most in the whole complex and Amir Khusraw had most aptly described it as the paradise on earth.   His inscription is written on the walls of this white marble structure- If there be a paradise on the  earth, it is this, it is this, it is this – Diwan-e-khas!  I am still wondering what resplendent, what exciting and what colourful life it would have been then.

The boundary of the Fort and some of its buildings are built with red sandstone and the name Lal Quila or Red Fort comes from there.   It is a well built, massive structure that encircles and secures the entire surrounding of the complex – the official palaces, mahals, gardens and the many other small and little buildings it ensconces.    There were trenches and channels of water all around to give the added security to the fort.  The gates are massive and built to protect the citizens inside the walled city.   The walls are built with holes in it for firing arms and ammunitions.  The four posts at the four corners were used for keeping a vigil.

The front façade is used right now during the Independence Day celebrations by the Prime Minister to address the nation.   However, the fort is just much much more than the front façade!   There is another huge and massive gate as soon as you enter from the front with a metal door called Lahori Gate.  This leads to a long covered path with arches and arched bays on both sides – more like a market place where you have shops on both the sides of the road.   It is called the chatta chowk which means covered bazaar.   Even today there are shops where people are selling all kinds of wares – jewellery, clothes, handicraft items.  It was said that this used to be the case even during Shah Jahan’s time.   He started this concept after he saw something like this in Peshawar.     During his times, the market would be engaged in luxury trade  of the imperial household and used to sell silks, brocades, gold, velvet and other expensive stuff.

After the Chatta Bazaar, there is yet another gate which takes you to a red building – the Diwan-e-Aam which means the ‘Place of Public Audience’.    There is a long rectangular lawn with a water body in the middle that runs across to the Diwan-Aam and paths cutout on both the sides.  This is a place was used by Shah Jahan to meet the common public and hear their grievances.  The structure was made in red sandstone and in the centre  is a raised platform with the Emperor’s throne with a canopy all made in Marble with exquisite handiwork of floral designs inlaid with semi precious stones.

After the Diwan-e-aam lies the little gems of beauty –  domains where Shah Jahan and other successive emperors used to actually live and spend time. You would be greeted with an expanse of garden and green lawns and water canals with white marble structures spread across the expanse.   The water bodies at that time was an important part as they provided the needed water and air cooling for the entire place.

Three white marbled palaces are placed in close proximity to each other at the other end of the garden – The  Rang Mahal (also called Shish Mahal), Khas Mahal and Shah Mahal (or Diwan-e-Khas).

Red fort -  The  Rang Mahal (also called Shish Mahal), Khas Mahal and Shah Mahal (or Diwan-e-Khas)

These were like 3 little pieces of jewels in that whole area.   Built completely in marble, they are a sight to behold!

Rang Mahal was the place where Shah Jahan used to entertain and be entertained.   It was painted in different colours from the inside and therefore derives its name from there.  It also had mirrors fitted on the top and therefore it was called the sheesh mahal though right now there is neither colour nor the mirrors.  This one actually looks faded and is the drabbest one out of the three.

red fort rang mahal

The next one is the Khas Mahal where Shah Jahan had his bed chambers and the dressing room.

Diwan-e-Khas next to it was the place where he would meet people close to him.  This palace was truly amazing in its architecture and the structure.  Though faded and greyish and yellow in colour, the structure speaks of the glorious past.   The peacock throne was removed from this place by Nadir Shah who attacked Delhi and it is said that this throne is somewhere in Iran right now.

The opulence and the extravaganza was clearly visible in the luxurious setting of the entire structure.  The richness of the designs and the work on the structure was truly marvelous.  I was wondering if these structures look so good even today after the wear and tear of the last 200 years, then what would it have been when it was pristine white colour of the marble resplendent with all the other colours the buildings would have been painted with, the coloured drapes, the carpets and all the precious stones that were embedded in the building design.  It would have been truly mesmerizing and therefore What Amir Khusraw said about this building would have been completely true at that point of time.  It would have been a paradise to behold!

Diwan-e-Khas

It is said that Taj Mahal was inspired by the Diwan-e-khas and its architectural designs.

There are other buildings too like the Mumtaz Mahal which is now converted to a museum and does not look like anything that was in the earlier days though one can see the arches and the carvings on the roof that are reminiscent of a celebrated past.

Then there are gardens and pavilions which would have been used by the Emperor, his wives and sons to relax during leisure times.

Zafar Mahal, Delhi

Zafar Mahal

I had never heard of Zafar Mahal till some days ago when my husband brought it up as one of the places we should be visiting.  And to know that it was in Mehrauli which is about 15 minutes from where we live was even more astounding.

When we finally made the visit today we realized that people living right next to the Palace were also quite unaware of its existence and significance.   We asked some people for directions in Mehrauli and they were quite clueless.

It could be probably because the area around Zafar Mahal has been encroached and people have built all kinds of buildings in and around that it is not seen properly and even the front façade does not give out the impression of the vastness that lay beyond.

The frontage is very simple.  The Mahal looked deserted.  The gates called the “Hathi Gate / Elephant Gate” were massive but closed and only a small enclosure which was part of the gate was open for people to pass through.  We got in not knowing whether we should or not but once inside, saw some men old and young in groups sitting on the inside lanes playing cards.  I was a bit scared, but since I was with my husband, we went on with our discovery mission.

 

I should confess, it was a revelation!  The more we went in, it opened up more and more surprises.   Even though the building was in a ruined condition, it was delightful to see the gorgeous formations and composition of the pillars, walls and its structure.   Made in Red Sandstone with some marbles thrown in, there was hardly any roof left apart from the main building and the domes.

To think that this is a place where the last Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar wished to be buried was quite shocking.   He used to spend the summers in this place and was called his Summer Palace.

The Palace was originally built by Akbar II and named after his son Bahadur Shah Zafar.   The entrance was then modified by Bahadur Shah Zafar himself.   The tombs of Akbar II, Shah Alam and Mirza Jahangir lie within this Palace.   Akbar II’s tomb is inside a marble enclosure.

There is a royal mosque also built in marble adjacent to where the tombs lay.

The halls in the upper parts of the buildings are vast with columns of arched pillars.  The carved pillars and arcades are beautiful to behold.

Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu

Kanyakumari

Kanyakumari is the southern tip of India.  It has been a cherished dream of ours as a family to visit this place whenever we were in Kerala.  So, about two years back when we were in Kerala, we finally decided to do a road trip from Trivandrum to Kanyakumari.    It was a fun ride.  It took us about 3-4 hours via NH 66 that passed through Nagercoil.   We were not sure of the way and therefore, had to continuously check with people on the road if we are on the right track.   The weather was good.   There was an overcast of clouds and so we were pretty sure it would rain.  We wanted to reach Kanyakumari before sunset to see and enjoy the sun going down the horizon..
 

 

The view from the car was very scenic.  There were coconut trees and mountains lined on both the sides.  There were fruit and juice vendors on the sides of the road to quench your thirst otherwise the places were very dry.
We reached Kanyakumari by about 5 pm and went straight to the beach to catch the sunset.  But to our utter disappointment, rain came pouring down as soon as we hit the beach.  It was a cloudy day and now that it began to pour so badly, we had to forego our desires and be content with enjoying the rain while we were on the beach.  We went back in search of a good hotel to stay during the night and settled in one of those hotels that was close to the beach.  We wanted to catch the sunrise even if we lost out on the sunset.  We settled into a comfortable place near the beach and went out for dinner.
We were told we should be at the beach early morning by atleast 4.30 / 5.00 if we were really interested in seeing the sunrise.  So, we set up our alarms and went off to sleep.
Early morning, it was a task to get all of us ready (we were with our children aged 11 and 12) and head back to the beach.  But the efforts did not go in vain.
It was there, first as just a hint of golden and orange colour intermingled with each other and turning to red at some places in the far horizon.  There were hundreds of people on the shore all waiting anxiously, not taking their eyes off for that first glimpse.  We kept waiting and slowly it did emerge from the depths like a burning fire and then slowly forming itself into a circular white.
We stayed on at the beach enjoying the waves and the waters for a long time.  There were rocks on which people tried to climb and experience the waves.

We took a ferry to reach Vivekananda Rock which has a temple dedicated to Devi Kanya Kumari and also a large statue of Thiruvalluvar.

   

It is believed that Vivekananda once came to this site under the instructions of Sri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa.

 

The popular belief is that this place being the tip of the India, is the meeting point of 3 seas but geographically there is only one.  We could however, see three different colours of water out in the sea when we stood watching from this place.  So, God only knows!
Qutub MInar - Alai minar

Qutub Minar Part II – The Alai Minar

Looking at that incomplete structure standing lonely and sadly, I felt pity for the one who started this venture.  It almost looked as if God wanted to punish him for being so proud of his achievements.  It is a fate that almost all who want to show off and brag about their successes ultimately receives in this world.   The one who felt that I can build better and show the world who is mightier has had to taste its ridicule even after generations have passed!!
The Qutub Minar Part II – Alai Minar was started by Alauddin Khalji who usurped the Slave dynasty and wanted to build something bigger and better than the Qutub Minar in the same complex.   The building construction started with almost double the diameter and was also visualised to be of double the height of present day Qutub Minar!   But Alas, the construction was left incomplete as he died immediately after the construction started and his successors were never interested in taking this up and completing it.
Standing in the same complex, it is an eye sore but a reminder for all the mighty and powerful, of what it could all turn out to be… unfinished and unsightly!
Qutub MInar - Tomb of Iltutmish

The Qutub Minar Complex – Tomb of Iltutmish

Shamsu’d-Din Iltutmish succeeded Qutub-ud-din-Aibak on the throne of Delhi and therefore he was the second Sultan of Delhi.  He was the one who took over the construction work of Qutub Minar and managed to complete 3 more floors after Aibak’s death.

 

The tomb of Iltutmish was constructed by himself.  It has a tomb chamber with a central cenotaph. There are exquisite carvings at the entrance and the interior walls of the tomb.   Kufi and Naskh character inscriptions can be found on the inside walls.   There are 3 mihrabs on the west side of the tomb and the central one is made with marble with exquisite carvings and inscriptions.

Like Aibak, Iltutmish was also a slave.  He was bought by Qutub-ud-din-Aibak and grew in stature and position during Aibak’s rule.  He married Aibak’s daughter and became the Governor of Badaun.  When Aibak died in a polo accident and Aram Shah whose relation to Aibak was shrouded in mystery tried to take over the Sultanate, Iltutmish was invited by Qutbi Amirs to take over as Sultan in Delhi.

He acquired a great nation and is credited with consolidating the power of Sultanate in India.  However, he was not able to hold all of them together. Slowly one by one he kept losing parts of the country as rebellions broke out and the Hindu Maharaja’s asserted their dominion over the captured regions.  Even his own people in different parts of the country left allegiance to him and started their own Sultanate!

Candolim Beach, Goa

Candolim Beach, Goa

When we were planning a family trip to Goa last year, we kept searching for the right place to stay and finally we arrived at a decision to stay at the Santana Beach Resort at the Candolim Beach looking at the reviews and ratings in Trip Advisor.

I have to say that we were not disappointed.  We did have a fantastic time!  The resort was right on the beach and we could just stroll down to the beach after our lunch and spend as much time, strolling and lazing around at the beach, picking up shells and just being in the water and enjoying the waves to our hearts content.  It gave us an opportunity to really enjoy and feel the essence of being in Goa!

    

The service was decent, the breakfast was varied and had a good spread of continental and Indian. We had Goan fish curry at lunch which tasted good.  The rooms were clean and bathrooms tidy with clean towels when we checked in.  We were lucky to get a room with a kitchen attached, though we did not use it as we were out most of the time.  It has a separate swimming pool for adults and children with beautiful lawns, properly trimmed and maintained with lots of coconut trees and other plants.   It looked beautiful even at night.

Another thing that we really liked about this place was that it was really close to Fort Aguada and we could take a tour of the Fort by taking a short walk through the beach.  We saw people indulge in para sailing and other evening sports at this beach.  It has a great beach shack too.  This place is also very close to the famous Kingfisher villa and  Vivantaby Taj – Fort Aguada.

The price is very decent for the facilities that are on offer.  We would definitely like to go back and stay there once more if we get a chance!!

How to get there

We can take a taxi either from the Goa airport located at Dabolim which is 46 km from Fort Aguada or any of the two Railway Stations – Margao and Vasco Da Gama.

Santana Beach Resort on Google Maps